Part Two of Exploring Central North Carolina

Exploring Central North Carolina, Part Two

a Carolina Paddler Article

by Zach Schiada

∞ In part one I described how I search for creeks to explore. In this second part, I discuss other hazards I’ve come across and give tips on finding the suitable conditions and water levels for exploring. I’ll also discuss how I keep track of possible rivers to explore in case a change of plans is needed.  

More Obstacles to Consider

Dams

Unless a targeted creek has reliable documentation, some research and scouting will be needed. Dams are a good example. Congress requires the US Army Corps of Engineers to maintain a National Inventory of Dams. A map of this database can be found here. However, I have encountered several dams on small creeks which are not included in their database. For this reason, a walking scout (if not trespassing) or a low water run/scout will be useful to see if dams or other hazards are present. A similar scout is useful if you suspect banks might be high throughout a run, making portages difficult.

Sometimes a dam can be seen on the satellite view of a creek, the case with the Pendergrass Mill Dam on Robeson Creek near Pittsboro. Other times, a dam can be a total surprise. I did a walking scout of Little Buffalo Creek, a stream with good gradient, and found a dam. There is zero visibility of the dam on satellite.

Every paddler should know to portage a dam new to them. A bank scout can reveal hazards like strainers, a significant boil line, lack of break-up in the uniformity of the pour-over and suitable places to stage safety precautions, like a rope thrower. In our region, many rivers with natural gradient were exploited for water energy in the 18^th and 19^th century. The same gradient can make for interesting whitewater. Dams have been uncommon in my explorations but are a reality when paddling higher gradient streams.

Tunnels

Tunnels are another obstacle to consider. I personally love paddling through tunnels and will seek them out. They do add an additional risk. When a river is not large enough to justify a pier supported bridge, a culvert or tunnel will sometimes be used to build a road over the creek. This can be more of a hazard if it occurs somewhere other than the beginning of a run, where you can easily opt out. If a tunnel is in the middle or the end of a run, it is best to portage. Debris can gather at the entrance and rocks can build up along the course of a tunnel.

I prefer to paddle upstream through a tunnel and then back downstream. I try to do this at the start of a run. Going upstream in a tunnel means paddling against the current. If you find a sticky spot, you can turn around and float down. Going downstream through a tunnel makes it difficult to reverse yourself. A pin could result, a risky proposition. A tunnel should be of sufficient diameter (height and width) to allow for making paddle strokes. If you do not have several feet of clearance with your paddle, it’s better not to run the tunnel.

An example of a fun tunnel is the one that goes under I-40 on New Hope Creek. I don’t recommend starting on the upstream side of the tunnel and hoping for the best. We put in on Hwy 86, paddled upstream to ensure it was clear and then safely back downstream through the tunnel.

Getting Lost

Getting lost while exploring happens occasionally. It doesn’t make logical sense considering the gradient on whitewater creeks means water moving downstream, but it has happened to me. I consider this a true B-Side Stream issue. On a typical whitewater river water flows in one direction, following the path of least resistance downhill. On rare occasions, a stream will have sections of flatwater, often formed by beaver dams, thus making the directional flow of water hard to determine. If the satellite view shows a small lake somewhere along your trip, determine recognizable landmarks prior to committing to the trip.

A cell phone signal allows tracking your progress on the satellite map you use. If a signal is not available, a swampy lake with many small brush-covered islands can become a maze. Mostly, I’ve been lucky to have map access through my phone, but don’t assume you will have cell coverage. Keep these types of trips short knowing you’ll likely paddle longer than expected to navigate your way through the maze. Carry a compass and have an idea of the direction you’re headed.

When to Paddle Small Creeks

Rain Required

Small creeks are tributaries to larger rivers, which means the runoff for them is very short- lived. They require more rain to be runnable and can only be paddled immediately after a heavy storm, well before the larger rivers have come up to their peak level. Many of these creeks are in remote locations without water gages. Planning is even more of a challenge. If nearby gages in a target area are spiking following a rain and continue to shoot up, smaller creeks are usually running high. Without the luxury of a nearby gage, sometimes it is necessary to observe the rainfall within a given drainage to predict if your desired creek has sufficient water.

A good tool for rainfall information is Rain Pursuit. This website maps drainage basins and uses color coding to indicate the amount of rain (in inches) in the last 24 hours. For very small creeks,  at least 2″ of rain is needed and for larger creeks around an inch and a half. This is an estimate. Seeing the river is the only certain gage.

Like paddling a larger river, high water brings more excitement to the rapids. This added push on an exploratory run also raises the risk of hazards like strainers or unanticipated drops. For a first-time paddle, I prefer to have enough water to enjoy the rapids without the additional push of an “ideal” run. I prefer a level considered minimum or low medium, with some mild scraping. This is difficult to estimate on an unknown river. Over time, you develop a visual sense of what might be in store. Good indicators are water flowing below the tops of banks and with a mild brown tint. Coffee brown water running over the normal banks is usually too adventurous for an exploration unless you have a good crew with swiftwater rescue experience.

Time of Year/Day Considerations

I prefer to do my explorations during the winter or early spring. Summer can provide quick heavy rains ideal for water level, but heavier vegetation can present hazards from low hanging tree branches and heavy vegetation on banks. Paddling smaller creeks often requires hiking-in or portaging, so poison ivy and heavy brush can be a problem. Vegetation is less in autumn but the season is usually dry unless rain comes from a tropical storm. The same storms can include heavy winds, toppling trees and causing more strainers. Trees and plants don’t require as much water in winter, so water levels jump up quickly, particularly in small creeks. Small streams still require more rain than rivers, so be ready for a spontaneous trip, regardless of the season.

Time of day is something to consider. I am limited to early morning paddles due to my family duties. Early morning is a good time for exploring. There is less chance of meeting owners unhappy with you paddling near their land. On the flip side, you are more likely to encounter hunters. It could be a dorky thing to add to your exploration kit, but a reflective orange vest might be a good thing to wear.

Backup Plans

What to do if you make a long drive and the creek you targeted does not have enough water? Or too much water. For this reason, if I’m driving a long distance, I pick a few potential spots in the same area. I review my notes on the back-up creeks to be mentally prepared. In the case of a Little Uwharrie River run, I had intended to paddle the headwaters of the Uwharrie River from Meadowbrook Rd to Kennedy Rd. Friends had paddled this and described it as fast, creeky class II. When I arrived at the river, the water level was much lower than expected. Having learned from disappointing trips in the past, I had two back-up options for paddles nearby. The switchover was not a significant time difference. I adjusted my trip by shortening the distance of the paddle, knowing I would need more time for scouting and the river could be more challenging.

I make similar backup plans if someone is meeting me to do a trip and suspect at the last moment they may not be able to make it. Because of the general uncertainty of paddling smaller creeks, this is a good practice to prevent disappointment and to avoid a snap judgement that will get you in over your head. I’ll discuss research notes and planning later.

Paddling with a Group Versus Solo

The question of whether to explore an unknown creek with a group versus solo should be an obvious answer. While it can be difficult to convince anyone to go with you on a new little creek, solo paddling for exploring is never a great idea. I don’t always follow this advice, but I’m aware solo paddling is an unnecessary risk, and I would never encourage anyone to try exploring solo. I justify solo paddling by taking safety measures such as keeping water levels low and trips short. Portage anything I am unsure of. Before I commit to an upcoming rapid of significance, I ask myself whether I am comfortable with swimming and possibly needing to recover gear. The reality is each trip paddled alone is still a safety gamble..

We all take personal responsibility for our safety. Exploring creeks becomes more risky when you don’t have a group to offer multiple perspectives on best lines and to help with rescues. At the risk of being hypocritical, I have found most whitewater in central North Carolina to be less extreme. In any case, exploring carries more risks when you are by yourself. It’s also more fun to share the experience of a new creek when you are with a group. If the creek ends up being a good one, you have better leverage to bring others to run it if your recommendation is backed by other paddlers.

Hot Spots for Good Whitewater

I found most worthwhile creeks after many hours looking at satellite and topographic maps. I started out relatively ignorant of our region’s geography and geology but I have learned a little on the subject. After years of obsessively searching maps, I am aware of certain patterns useful in finding areas likely to offer decent whitewater. One approach is focusing on popular rivers with high gradients and looking at creeks that flow into them, particularly near significant drops. This is a good way to find similar gradient and to link a creek to a known river run in case the creek isn’t as great as you thought it could be. An example is Cattail Creek, which Aaron Vaughan and I ran to link up with what Paul Ferguson (Paddling Eastern North Carolina) calls Section One of the Tar River. The creek feeds into the Tar just upstream of Belltown Road, which is our favorite rapid of Section One. In a similar way, I’ve found a creek that runs parallel to a river is a decent way to correlate similar streambed morphology. A known example is Buckhorn Creek. It has decent rapids as it runs parallel to the Cape Fear River at Buckhorn Falls. Running both requires hiking back up to the top of Buckhorn Creek. I believe some parallel tributaries to the Deep River near Cedar Falls might offer interesting rapids.

In the past few weeks, I had an ah ha moment while mapping out places I have paddled. The sections of rivers with the highest gradient followed a line roughly paralleling our state’s eastern Fall line. The Fall line or fall zone is the area where the coastal plain transitions to the rolling hills of the Piedmont. The difference is the line I noticed is much further to the west than the eastern Fall line. In this map at geology.com, the whitewater line appears to correspond with a elevation change from the 300-600 ft range in elevation to 600-1200 ft range. This does not mean every stream found along this line is going to be ideal for whitewater, but it is an additional clue to where a good creek could be. I will continue my searches based on similar transitions in elevation since we know elevation changes produce flowing water if a stream follows this course.

There are potential spots that do not have an easy macro-geographical explanation. The Little River (Neuse Tributary) near Zebulon has some significant drops at the Mitchell’s Mill State Natural Area and at the Moore’s Mill Dam. Moore’s Mill Dam was heavily damaged from Hurricane Matthew in 2016, creating a couple of fun rapids. I would love someone knowledgeable in geography and geology to explain the seemingly random places where drops occur. I have a decent idea of what might be found within Wake, Harnett and Chatham counties. The counties surrounding the Uwharrie Mountains offer many opportunities and I have only paddled a few creeks in that area. It is the area offering the most promise for exploration. Similarly, the upper stretches of the Tar River and its surrounding tributaries could offer fun at a milder gradient.

Documenting Planned and Completed Trips

Once a decent creek is identified, I make a note of its potential put-ins, takeouts, gradient, hazards and bigger drops. Keeping a record of potential spots on a map saves you from “discovering” the same creek over and over. I use Google Earth to mark creeks in purple to differentiate those not yet run. After running a creek, I update my notes with a report on what I found. I often share the more interesting trip reports.

I track my progress exploring creeks by creating a color coded line on Google Earth. One color represents a creek that I plan on exploring in the future. A different color represents my opinion of how a creek would be rated for difficulty on American Whitewater. Another color shows what amounts to a leisurely flatwater paddle. I mark in red significant shuttles, such as times that I’ve walk-carried or if the shuttle was especially grueling in some way.

I find this as a rewarding way of cataloguing rivers paddled. It’s exciting to see a map fill in with colors representing your progress. It’s also a way of comparing satellite imaging of a potential creek with ones you know to be good. Sometimes I add a worthy creek to the American Whitewater database. I limit this to places with good public accesses and little frustration. I enjoy many small creeks, but very few are worthy of adding to American Whitewater.

Expectations/Conclusion

What sorts of rapids can be found on exploratory paddles in central North Carolina? I have noticed some patterns. The tributaries of the Haw and Deep Rivers are class I-II with the occasional II+. The runs have more continuous, fast current compared to popular rivers, but not a lot of consequences other than strainers. Think of a well-known creek like New Hope, but without its more challenging bigger rapids. On tributaries of the Tar and Neuse Rivers, I have found the occasional bigger drop, approaching class II+ to III in some cases, with more flat water or class I-II and slower currents throughout.

The most exciting stuff I’ve explored has been in areas surrounding Asheboro, close to the Uwharrie and Caraway mountains ranges. The highest overall gradients are in the northern part of the Triangle, approaching the Triad area in the line I described previously. Like the popular rivers in the region, creek sections with larger drops last only for a half mile, but the accompanying lower gradient parts have been interesting enough to warrant a return to them.

While I find exploring whitewater to be a fun hobby, I don’t think it’s an experience everyone would enjoy. This paddling is a niche category, both from a safety perspective and the excitement payoff. To borrow a quote from my buddy and river explorer, Paul Yow, “I will keep trying to find my Shangri-La.”

The reality is folks who pioneered the sport decades ago already did the true exploration for our area. They established runs for good paddling experiences with minimal headaches. They did so with less technology. They deserve recognition for providing information we can now access by simply opening a guide book or visiting the American Whitewaterwebsite.

I find exploring creeks worthwhile and continue to believe there is something good out there I haven’t yet “discovered.” My hope is others will find exploring worthwhile. I encourage anyone exploring to do it safely and courteously and to share what they find with the community. I am always happy to involve others in my explorations if they are willing to wake up at the crack of dawn to join me. Tips and advice are welcome. Others have been paddling and exploring our area for much longer than I have.

Creeks Explored (So Far)

I have many other places mapped out to explore but here is a list of my favorite creeks to date. They are not sorted in any order, just a list of what I would do again with the right conditions. Included is basic data about the location and my guess of the difficulty rating for each. Note: The Rocky River section mentioned does not have a suitable access. This is my favorite and I’m hoping there will be an access in the future. Unless the town of Siler City creates an access do not attempt this section.

I’m happy to share information if anyone has an interest.

• Richland Creek: Old Humble Mill Rd to Fairview Farm Rd, Class II-III – Notable drop at Mendenhall Falls. Other interesting features throughout and a few portages.

Pickett’s Mill Rd to Erect Rd, Class II (III) – One technical boulder garden and a curvy, spiraling dam drop at the end.

• Robeson Creek: Confluence with Turkey Creek to Robeson Creek Boat Launch, Class II – Fast, wavy water with some play spots and straightforward, nearly continuous rapids. I will write about this at some point in the future.
• Little Buffalo Creek: Deep River Rd to Deep River at US 15/501, Class I-II+ – Fast, wavy water with two interesting ledges in the transition from lake to creek. Paddle upstream to Deep River canoe access for takeout. Only recommended if you are comfortable with paddling a very narrow stream and willing to either paddle upstream to the takeout or very far downstream to White Pines or Hwy US1.
• Rocky River: at the former site of  Whitehead & Fox Mill, Class II-III – No access for this. One large drop. Fast, wavy water with standing trees to dodge and a few play spots.
• South Fork Little River: Guess Rd to confluence with the North Fork Little River, Class I-II (III) – Highest boof in the Triangle at the former site of Russell Mill followed by smaller rapids before the confluence with the North Fork.
• Little Uwharrie River: Tabernacle Church Rd to Uwharrie River Confluence, Class II-III – More sections to be explored in the future. One large drop followed by a slightly smaller drop followed by smaller ledges and fast ,wavy water till the confluence.